The search for the perfect setting powder

I'm not really a powder person.  Even my beloved Guerlain Terra Cotta four seasons leaves me feeling a little old even though it's touted as one of the best bronzers money can buy (my shade, 01, has a pink quarter so it can double as a blush depending on how you swirl your brush). 
I'll put a picture in here just for fun, even though this is not a bronzer post.  Bottom line on this one - I agree with the reviews, best powder bronzer.  Smells nice and you get a large quantity.  You may never have to re-purchase. The compact is beautiful and luxurious with a magnet closure.  It has a pin hole in the back suggesting it can be refilled but I haven't seen any refills.  I'm sure they exist somewhere.

Anyway, back to the point.  A while ago I thought that with all the moisturizing I've been doing for my very dry skin (night-treamtent-like creams by day with a layer of tinted moisturizer on top) I needed to add a setting powder lest my makeup all slide off my face and onto my phone or hands or whatever by noon.  If I have an itch on my forehead or go to move stray hairs out of the way I litterally get little spots of collected makup on my skin.  Very embarrassing.  So I've cut down on the moisture and first went to Chanticaille's HD Perfecting Powder.  It's among the best-rated and most expensive (at $72) setting powders on the market.  Especially since it has no other function to offer.  It is not illuminating and not hydrating and doesn't boast an SPF.  It's just a transluscent powder.  At this price point I expected it to melt into my skin leaving a matte, soft-focus, blemish-and-line-concealing finish.  But when applied it looks like you're wearing a powder.  With all the attendant problems of a true pressed powder.  It sets makeup.  But it highlights red and dark spots, lines, an any uneven application of foundation because it totally eliminates any glow the foundation might have contributed.  After really trying to like this product I decided powder just was not for me.  It went back.




By necessity, my morning routine is still fairly high-moisture and being a beauty product addict, of course it was only a  matter of time before I started looking again.  Not searching for a powder, per-se, but noticing them, reading reviews, and wondering where my holy grail setting product was (since primer is one more layer of fluid makeup it really doesn't help with the makup sliding off problem).  Enter Guerlain.  Having loved their foundation and having not been able to help but notice these strange small pastel-colored balls we call "Meteorites" I became curious.




Novelties aren't really for me, so without even trying the pearls I went straight for the very expensive ($170!  omg) but refillable compact.  One reviewer described this compact as heirloom-quality.  It really is.  Very heavy but sleek, magnet closure, this one isn't getting thrown into the empties pile:

Allow me to summarize the thousands of reviews out there:  A setting powder that is not an obvious highlighter.  Rather it makes your skin glow from within.  Sold!  Having finally tried this out, I think it is exquisite for the T-zone.  It is illuminating.  And it is a setting powder.  And it would probably be fine on it's own.  But I may try a finishing powder in addition (because I'm an addict).  Either in the morning or as a touch-up product that I keep at my desk.  This is the one currently on my lust list, it's a illuminating and mattifying powder, also from Guerlain, that comes in I believe three shades.  One that's close to white, this one which is "Rose Teint," and a slightly more bronzy version.




 I had the Guerlain representative swipe some of this on me this weekend and it absorbs as well if not better into the skin than the colorful compact.  It's probably as close as a true powder can get to acting like a cream, it's that finely milled.  I will update when I get it. 

What is your setting routine? 

Here comes Tory Burch Beauty

She is not one of my favorite all-around designers, but when she's on, she's on.  And I'm intrigued by her minimalist approach, being a fan of simple when it comes to beauty myself.  So I'm looking forward to this.  Not sure how she got the rights to Vetiver but as a new Guerlain loyalist, I have to say I'm a fan of the fragranced makeup.  It makes the experiece all the more luxurious and fancy.

Check out the (brief) NYT story here.

Lippies

 

Here are some I've tried lately, with reviews and pictures.  As a disclaimer, I'm a neutrals girl when it comes to lip glosses and colors.  I rarely go for the straight up "lipsticks" preferring instead the more natural looks of tints, glosses, etc.  

Guerlain Maxi Shine.  Really beautiful subtle colors and stays on a while for a gloss.  I do think they are worth the $30 pricetag - the quality is in how natural they look and how well they stick.  People have complained that they're a little tacky on the lips but that's hard to avoid in a long-lasting gloss.  I bought Pink Clip, Bubble Gum (shown right), and Browny Clap.  Bubble Gum would look adorable with any look that highlights fuchia or pink, it would even work with a pale pink outfit and the appropriate blush.  That said, it was just a tad too pink for me, I tend to stick to variations of red or brown hues.  Sometimes I venture towards Rose.  But this is a true bubble gum, although sheer enough to wear to work.  Several of the colors have a subtle illuminating glitter.  This is true for the Pink Clip color - it looks almost opalescent - but it works great on the lip by highlighting, rather than looking obviously like glitter.  The Pink Clip I bought because I was looking for something with a coral overtone and I haven't been disappointed.  This color doesn't add depth though, just shine and a light-colored tint - it works for peachy/pink ensambles.  The Browny Clap also has glitter but it's less noticeable and pretty much invisible on.  It's my favorite color for how natural and versitile it looks.  It has become an every day staple in my handbag.  It gives lips a deeper red/brown healthy shine. VERDICT: Amazing gloss, worth the price.

Fresh's Sugar Lip Treatment SPF 15.  I have several of these in my makeup bags and work stash.  The two pictured above are the birthday samples from Sephora - one colorless and one in Rose.  I layer the Rose on top of the original formula so the pinky red color doesn't smack people in the face, it looks much more natural diluted.  I also have Honey which is so highly pigmented that I have to use that with a clear gloss or treatment too.  I like the Honey color better than Rose because it's a little closer to brown-red that looks natural on me than pink-red, but both are great.  Petal is the newest release in this line and it's getting rave reviews.   







                                  










At $22.50 you should be expecting more than a tinted chapstick, and you get it, sort of.  The formula is so hydrating and the SPF is a nice touch.  The cons (and the reason I keep my eye out for samples but haven't made repeat purchases) are (a) the staying power isn't better than Vaseline lip therapy (b) the consistency is a lot like Vaseline lip therapy and (c) while the colored sticks are probably more natural looking and pigmented than products you can find in the drugstore, they too are not long lasting.  When the formula fades, so does the color.  Also, the high pigmentation tends to look overdone unless diluted, and who wants a two-step tinted lip balm?  VERDICT:  While I appreciate many of the product's qualities, I plan to return to Vaseline Lip Therapy when my supplies are out.

Shiseido's Lacquer Rouge.  This is the last item pictured in the first frame.  I picked this up when I returned the Perfect Foundation Brush reviewed here.  I wasn't able to return the brush for a refund, I had to exchange it.  So one point off for Shiseido for not having a better return policy.  This was a botique store that would only do returns if the returned product had not been used even though the receipt stated returns would be honored within 30 days with no other caveats listed.  Used items could only be exchanged.  There are so many competitors now (Nordies, Sephora, CVS, to name a few) who let customers return products they've tried and not liked, I have no reason ever to go back to that boutique.  Even for Shiseido products which I can get at department stores that will honor a return.  The 'lacquer' is a gloss formula and it's not great. Its very thick and doesn't spread over the lips well (or over a clear base) so you can get a patchy look if you aren't careful.  The thick formula paired with the high pigmentation means it absolutely should not be put on without a mirror.  I bought the most natural looking color (309 - another point off for not having identifiable names or having any indication of the color on the outside of the tube...what if you own more than one? You better memorize the numbers).  So it's a two step gloss with a mirror requirement.  Staying power is no better than my Victoria's Secret Beauty Rush gloss (which I have always loved but which are very sheer - this is weekend stuff).  VERDICT: Not worth the time or $'s.  I probably won't make it to the end of the tube.  Or even the middle.       

Clinique Almost Lipstick.  This is holy grail material.  I have two of the same color (Tender Honey) and use both of them all. the. time.  One is at work and the other is in my makeup bag.  And I have a third in the cult classic Black Honey for special occasions.  Very diverse shades of this stuff can look great on the same complections.  They are very versitile due to how natural the shades look.  They are creamy with some shine, but no more than a lipstick.  They feel great on and the lack of super vinyl shine that is so popular on lip products these days is consistent with the natural look.  While they look highly-pigmented in the tube, they are sheer enough to put on without a mirror.  They seriously deepen your natural shade and add a tint that makes you look radient and healthy.  They do your manicures for you too.  Just kidding. But I wouldn't be surprised.  They are that amazing. 
VERDICT: best of the bunch, and not because of the great price tag. 

Bite Beauty Lush Lip Tint.  This is billed as a conditioning tint and I was so excited to try it - I bought Lychee and Tangelo thinking they would be complimentary shades for darker and pinker looks, respectively.  They were both horrible.  The color is too pasty and not at all natural.  They are basically lipsticks, rather than tints, and on top of the too-strong-for-a-tint color, you have to put a lot on to get the conditioning benefits (as opposed to Fresh's Sugar offerings which, incidentally, are a couple bucks cheaper) so they both went back.  I didn't notice their staying power because I couldn't stand to leave them on for long.  VERDICT:  Fail. 


My newest additions are my first YSL Rouge Pur Couture 'Rebel Nudes.'  I have been pleasantly surprised by these.  I had received samples of Rouge Pur Couture in brighter hues in the past and found them too over the top to spend $34 on.  If I'm spending that kind of money I want to get a lot of use out of the tube.  I picked out of the most neutral of the Nudes have been wearing them to everything since.  They are first class lip stains and the neutral colors really serve to deepen a variation of a natural lip and to add illumination and gloss. 

This is such a complex formula that you really need to have the color just right.  They are buildable but wouldn't lend themselves to mixing well.  You can immediately feel the cool liquid aspect of it when you first apply it which gives way to a waxy layer that stays and stays.  It really does feel like you could eat a 5 course meal complete with wine pairings without smudging or losing the color.  And it's almost true.  This is, at heart, a stain.  The after-effect is a relatively un-frilly not-quite-matte color.  It's not a gloss.  And the color stays like a stain.  There are other stains out there.  But I've never owned one because I have found the colors unnatural and over-saturated.  Until now! 

I have Nude Provocateur (101) and Beige Anarchist (106) and love them both.  Nude Provocateur is a dark nude that adds a depth to the natural color of the lips.  Beige Anarchist is going to be my go-to when red, pink, or a wine color is part of the ensemble.  It looks bright purple in the tube but has a brown-red hint to it which makes it a little dressier than 101.  Both have an illuminating-grade glitter quality to them which makes them shine but not "sparkle" exactly.  I also like the applicator - it's like a typical gloss applicator but flattened and at an angle.  It really does a good job of simulating a brush.  One that you never have to clean.  The $34 price tag is nothing to scoff at.  It's the most I've ever spent on a lip product.  But it's worth adding a couple favorites to your collection.  VERDICT: go-to for occasions where you need staying power. 

 

What are your favorites?

Eyeliner - reviews and routine

Some things (and brands) I am very loyal to.  Eyeliner products are not one of those things.  I am always on the lookout for a better, easier, more solid colored, less smudgy eyeliner.  There was a time when I tired of pencils looking kind of, well, pencil-ish - by which I mean unsaturated, jagged lines that fade and smudge and basically disappear by lunchtime.   I thought liquid eyeliner was the answer.  But while I realize there are some looks that cannot be achieved with anything else, and while I realize it looks amazing and glides easily onto some lids, I've had to embrace the fact that liquid liner is not for me.  I don't know if I just don't have a steady enough hand or if my eyes are too sensitive (flinchy), but even with short brushstrokes I couldn't get my eyes done in under 3-5 minutes which is way more than I care to spend on just lining.  I did loads of research and testing of various products and techniques.  I found the drugstore brand applicator tips just impossible.  You get what you pay for.  So I purchased the favorably reviewed Lancome Artliner and Smashbox Limitless Liquid pen and grabbed samples at every opportunity.  I ended up returning everything that wasn't a sample.  I'm not the type to hang on to a $30 eyeliner just to throw it away years later.  My favorites were the Stila Stay All Day pen and the Smashbox pen for pigment, "ease" of use, and long-wear/smudgeproofness.  So if you're into this stuff, that's what I'd recommend.

Upon giving up on liquid, I tried tightlining with gel.  Not great at first because I had the wrong brush.  I used Bobbi Brown's Ultra Fine Eyeliner Brush which is fine for over-lash lining with powder liner, but ridiculous for gel.  It just leaves a faint, too-thick, unevenly pigmented mess.  The holy grail for eyeliner brushes, particularly for gel liner that you're stamping under the lashes, is Laura Mercier's Flat Eye Liner brush. 

No joke, this thing changed my life, importantly, and probably forever.  So now, after applying a base cream shadow or tinted primer I do a pencil line above my lashes in dark brown or black.  My current pencils in both colors is  MUFE aqua eyes because I like how easily it glides on and the color choices are amazing.   But I'm not married to these pencils.  I think I'm going to try Dior next.  Then I do a tightline to my top lid in bobbi brown's gel liner in black with Laura Mercier's Magical Perfection Liner Brush (same one as above, I just renamed it).  The BB gel is the only one I've tried.  Because why mess with a good thing?  It's a long-wear formula, it goes on easy, has a super-pigmented inky black and as long as you just make a line and don't spread it on like margarine on toast it will not stamp down onto the lower lids.  I've tried the margarine approach and it does transfer a little, but very little.  It actually is a good technique if you want a very subtle smudge of color along the bottom water line. 

 

It only takes a minute for the whole procedure because both products are easy to apply.  And the effect is really dramatic...and yet natural.  It looks like your lashes go on forever and really defines the eyes without looking like an art project close up.  When I want to look super sexy I add a stripe of a Laura Mercier caviar stick basically right on top of my liner (because the stick is a little wider than eyeliner it extends above it a smidge making for a sultry ombre look.  I love these sticks.  I have one in Amethyst and one in Sugar Frost and would love to get them in Cocoa and one of the grays.  I have only ever used them to enhance the eyeline (and the inside corner with Sugar Frost - careful with this one it's kind of glittery) but they can be smudged into submission in the creases and corners too. 

 

As an aside, a lot of critiques of the MUFE aqua eyes line (and tons of pencils for that matter, high end or not) complain about staying power.  I think eye pencils, like a lot of types of makeup, are one of those categories that is "only makeup" so to speak.  Liquid foundation falls into this category too.  No matter how well intentioned the formula, the stuff will come off.  You can set pencils up to succeed by applying them on a primer- or base-covered eyelid rather than directly on oily or moisturized lids, but regardless, it is not a tatoo.  I hold gel and liquid to a slightly higher standard but in my experience, pencil is categorically failable.

Other favorite pencils:
Smashbox Limitless Eye Liner - great pigment, not as smooth as the 24/7 or aqua eyes. 
Clinique's Cream Shaper for eyes - great value, decent pigment, a little dry.  I have a hunch that they might be discontinuing this soon as it's no longer sold at Sephora and they have so many new liners on deck.   

Brush vs. Sponge: The Verdict

*

First a review of the Bobbi Brown Foundation Brush.  It is worth the hype.  Recall how fond I was of my little Target trooper.  Unpackaging the BB brush made me feel like I was finally running with the big dogs.  The photo below shows them side-by-side for comparison.  And it doesn't just look more luxurious, it is softer, stipples better, and streaks less than the cheaper version.  I've cleaned and dried it twice now within 48 hours and it seems to be in good shape.  I know some may find that obvious but if a brush is going to wear out with washings, it typically shows some fuzziness on the first wash.  Take for example the Sephora professional fan brush.  Don't buy it.  It's frizz city after one wash.  I'm not going to waste any more time reviewing that one unless someone specifically requests more details.  Just don't buy it.  I'm serious. 

Anyway, so the BB brush is amazing, and the bigger size means more coverage each stroke and less time at the mirror.  I love it.  This is the third I've tried this month and my search is over for a while.

 

Both the BB and the Target brush (the one on the right, I wish I knew the manufacturer, this is a shoo-in for best budget buy - I've had it for positively YEARS and it still looks and acts new, if a bit less effective than it's more expensive counterpart) required exactly 1.5 pumps of Guerlain Parure de Lumier to cover my face adequately.  Foundation is generally not designed to cover every last inch of your face, it's more for problem areas.  But I have some overpigmentation issues - it's like freckles but not that cute.  So I put foundation everywhere except on my eyelids and brows.  That's not an overwhelming amount of product. 

And the sponge that I've been using for years requires.....(drumroll)

 

...2.5 pumps.  And the coverage is definitely more sheer.

And that's what the thing looks like at the end, lots left over.   

That's from ONE use!  I do miss how quick and easy the sponge is.  But as I've said, I'm pretty grossed out that I've been letting sponges go for so long before throwing them out.  I have to say that I think my skin is actually better having committed to a brush and daily washings over this past week.  It might be a coincidence.  But it does make sense. 


*I am embarrassed by the quality of these pictures.  The lighting is bad and yellow, the camera is not a dslr.  I think blogs are so vastly improved by good pictures and video and it is my intention to improve at this.  If this blog ever blows up, so to speak, I will definitely reward myself with a fancy camera. 

Monday manicure breakdown

First coat: guerlain la base protectrice

Second and third: Dior in Plaza

Topcoat: Dior gel topcoat

I love all of these. This is pretty much the best money can buy. But you can still see a little wear on the edges. This manicure is about 24 hours old. Plaza is amazing.  It's classy enough for work but fun enough for a summer pool party and goes great with the highlighter colors that are so popular now.  Again the Dior topcoat is super high shine and really elevates the look. Two people asked me if I had them done professionally and even when I said no one of them thought I had gotten an at-home shellac kit. Nope. This can be done easy peasy in a haf hour in front of the tube between putting kiddies to bed and packing their lunch for tomorrow. 

 

Foundation brush challenge: week in review

So the bottomline is that I like the brush.  I feel like I have just as much control and coverage for general application as I do with a sponge.  I still use a sponge for concealer though, the sponge is nice for problem areas cause it wraps around blemishes and stipples with such good coverage.  I don't even think the Shiseido Stippling Brush (this is my name henceforth for their Perfect Foundation Brush) could do concealer like I want concealer done.  So there will still be sponges in my bathroom, but fewer of them and they will be used less frequently and replaced more frequently.  Having spent a week with the brush and washing it daily (two rounds of cleanser each wash) I'm kind of disgusted that I would let sponges go as long as I did before - two weeks sometimes.  Gross.  The washing of course adds that extra step that I got rid of by not having to wash my hands a bunch of times, but it's not as bad for my hands and I've gotten it down to about a half a minute.  I also got a new brush holder from the container store that I'm in love with so not only are my brushes easier to reach for but they're easier to air dry (before this week I had kept them in a bathroom cupboard).  This is absolute genius - it can sit on your countertop for normal days and get easily hidden back away in the cupboard when company is over.  

And it matches the acrylic cosmetic organizers that are so trendy these days. 

I like my Target brush, it turns out.  I think it's made of synthetic hair so it doesn't get all fuzzed out when I wash it obsessively like I do.  I did order the Bobbi Brown Foundation Brush which arrived today so stay tuned for that review.  I will probably do it in tandem with my sponge vs. brush standoff.  As I've mentioned, the brush has nearly perfect reviews.  The complaints when they do arise are that the bristles dry out with too much washing (altho they claim to be high-end synthetic) and that it absorbs a lot of product.  We shall see.